Caleta Partida and Ensenada Grande, 15 March 2013

Willow at Ensenada Grande

At 0830, I left the slip at Marina Palmira.  Free at last!  I checked out with the Port Captain of La Paz utilizing my well-honed spanglish.  I hear the chuckle in his voice when I apologize for my espanol.  I’m headed toward Bahia San Gabriel, about 18 nm out of La Paz.  I sent some photos and verbage about that spot on my last post.  It was absolutely beautiful, and my favorite spot, until I moved to Caleta Partida, about 9 nm up the coast of Isla Espiritu Santo.  There is a suggested anchorage on the northeast side of the cove, but I opted for the other, less crowded spot at the east side of the cove.  There, I was near the fish camp and National Parks building.  (Now don’t get excited.  This ‘building’ literally was plywood with a tin roof, just enough to house the Rangers for their 3 day shifts.)  A coromuel was always a possibility, so I thought tucking in on the easterly side would at least give me a little shelter.  Well, for two nights it blew up to 30 knots, making my spot windy but without fetch, there were no wind waves.  The Catalina 34, Autumn Wind, with Brian and Elizabeth aboard, joined the party.  We hiked on the island, and the fun part was the “Z” shaped channel leading from west, to the east side of the island. The fishermen had the luxury, in a small panga, to get to the other side by traveling through this little channel instead of going ‘all the way around.’  The flora and fauna are stark, amazing and beautiful, as are the different colors of rock, mountain and soil.

The View from the Arroyo, Ensenada Grande

View from the Arroyo, Ensenada Grande

After 2 nights here, Elizabeth, Brian and I decided to go up-island to Ensenada Grande.  Now THIS is my favorite spot.  So far.  This cove was a whopping 4 nm miles from Caleta Partida, but it was such a difference.  The first night it again blew stink, and again, I was in the good spot as to not have any fetch (if you have a lot of fetch, the wind over the water has a chance to make waves, and this is not a good thing when you’re lookin’ to sleep or cook).  But I did get wind.  Sheesh!  Fortunately, it shut down early, and I was able to get a few hours worth of sleep.  The next morning, we all decided to go for a hike ashore.  I’ve been trying to use my SUP as my dinghy, and when conditions allow, I do.  I paddled in, and Brian and Elizabeth took the dink.  Our hike was supposed to take us up to the fisherman’s cross, up at the top of the bluff overlooking our boats lying at anchor.  There’s a guidepost at the trailhead, and it says it’s 2.4 miles up to the cross.  4.8 mile hike?  Not too bad.  We packed cameras and water and were off.  This trail (I just noted I had typed ‘trial.’  It is in fact very appropriate.) was up the arroyo, and entailed climbing boulders, finding your own way, watching out for clusters of wasps, vultures and other fun things.  I had packed my camera and water in a dry bag since I paddled in, and found myself banging it on rocks or getting it caught on the thorny bushes prevalent here.  I decided to ditch the bag after a good swallow of water.  I placed it in an easy to find spot for the way down.  As 1100 rolled around, Elizabeth was leading the rock-hopping way, with Brian next, and of course me bringing up the rear.  After another few minutes, I got thirsty, my knees were tired, and I figured if I kept going, someone was going to have to carry me down.  I’m so glad I turned around.  I made my way carefully down the arroyo, finding snakes, gobs of lizards, and some vultures guaranteed a great meal if I hadn’t turned around.  Back at the trailhead, I noted the scale for this hike to be ‘difficult,’ and didn’t feel so bad.  Back in the day, I used-to-could hop right on up that arroyo.  I’ll keep that memory…

Hungry Vulture Lookin' at Me

Hungry Vulture A-lookin’ at Me

I got back to Willow, changed into a swimsuit, and decided to go for a paddle.  I took the SUP all around the immediate bay, and swam (planned) in the turquoise colored shallows.  After getting back on the boat, I showered and changed, and noted a fisherman in a panga slowly making his way through the anchorage.  He waved, and I wave at everyone, so I waved back.  He came up to Willow, and we talked fish.  He said he had a nice bonita, but I asked for my favorite, yellowtail.  He held up a 2 1/2 foot long fish, and I nodded.  Brian and Elizabeth had been talking about having fresh fish, so I decided to make some for them after their strenuous hike.  The panguero asked how much I would pay for the fish, and not having any idea of the local value, and not wanting to insult him, I said 200 pesos ($16).  He agreed, and passed over the fish.  As is a good thing to do, I asked Arnulfo if he wanted something to drink and he nodded gratefully.  When I turned back from the icebox, I found him aboard and sitting in the throne.  He smiled sheepishly and said, “Necesito companera.  Tu solita?”  (I’m lonely.  Are you alone?)  Well, I had a hard time not busting up, but after Arnulfo heard my response to being single he said, “Pobrecita.  Yo me gusto.” (Poor baby.  I like you.)  We traded spanglish for another 10 minutes, I gave him a jaqueta (jacket), and told him “Gracias y adios!”  We shook hands, then he kissed my hand, and then he pointed hopefully to his cheek.  I smiled, then shook my head.  He told me if I was ever staying at Caleta Partida to look him up.  It was pretty funny.  All I can say is, Dudes dig me!!!!!  Needless to say, the yellowtail was awesome, and I had a few leftovers…


Makani’s Favorite Spot When It’s Too Hot…

I hope you are all well, and enjoying Spring.  Keep doing good things, take care of each other and have fun.  I miss you all…  There’ll be a few more posts while I’m here.  I’ll use the internet while I have the chance!

2 thoughts on “Caleta Partida and Ensenada Grande, 15 March 2013

  1. Grace Vernola

    Beautiful !!!……I just LOVE that you are having so much fun, and enjoying your dream.



Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s